Ecuador - 6. Visitando Quito
Sunday, 17 de February, 2008 a las 23:45 por Aarón (Ideas, León Dormido, Sensaciones)
Me levanto a las 8:45 sin despertador. Cuando bajo están Vini y Lili haciendo limpieza en casa, y como no sé qué hacer y tampoco me “dejan” hacer algo pues me siento a adelantar la lectura de “a Manaos”, que llevo un poco retrasada.
Después de desayunar nos vamos con nuestros bártulos hacia el coche para ir a Quito. Durante el viaje conversamos con Vini sobre el peligro de intentar poner en marcha iniciativa similar al León (o incluso al Pesta) en España: el caso, por ejemplo, de los amigos de Olga, que se enfrentan a juicio por no haber escolarizado a sus hijos.
A mi no me daría miedo a lanzarme a la aventura de remar contra corriente en el León, pero sí que veo mucho más difícil y peligroso intentar algo así en España, donde las leyes son mucho más estrechas y se aplica de forma más dura y tenaz. Las libertades allí son más limitadas en ese sentido, y una iniciativa así podría ser interpretada como un peligro potencial de una secta religiosa o vete tú a saber qué. Para los grupos de poder, una iniciativa así, que va contra un sistema educativo uniformizante, que va contra un sistema económico asfixiante, es un peligro, pues se basan en esos dos pilares para mantenerse en el poder, y son capaces de utilizar cualquier mecanismo legal a su alcance para intentar detener esa “mancha” en el sistema.
De acuerdo que, en los inicios, Rebe y Mauricio estuvieron en una situación parecida, y que hasta conseguir el permiso del Ministerio de Educación ecuatoriano para poner en marcha el “Centro Experimental Pestalozzi” las pasaron canutas, y quizá eso, la fuerza que han tenido ambos para llegar hasta ahí lo que te anime a luchar en casa por algo parecido, por un espacio de vida gestionado de una manera que consideramos adecuada, y no como borregos del televisor y la manipulación de los anuncios comerciales. Pero como le comento a Vini, intentar esto significa poner en peligro mi familia y que lleguen a cuestionar si soy un buen padre para mis hijos… ¿Significa que puedo perder la custodia de mis hijos por no haberlos educado cuando lo que intento es proporcionarles una verdadera educación para ellos?
También conversamos sobre la necesidad de un apoyo en la comunidad. En el León ahora son 9 familias, que se conocen, persiguen los mismos objetivos para sus vidas, se apoyan en las necesidades, y cuyos hijos se conocen y establecen relaciones sociales entre ellos. Suponiendo que Xenia y yo finalmente tuviéramos nuestra familia, aunque preparáramos espacios en casa para la educación de nuestros hijos la cuestión socializadora no se podría solventar facilmente en casa: el niño necesita relacionarse con semejantes. Yo soy un adulto, y encima, su padre, de forma que las relaciones sociales y afectivas que se establecen son en un sentido y no en otro. Y ya no sólo eso, sino que sentir que “remas” en compañía y que puedes compartir la carga con otras personas no tiene precio. Eso te permite valorar si estás decaído “ey, ellos avanzan y yo estoy aquí perdiendo el tiempo, ¿qué es lo que me pasa?”, e intentar superar obstáculos. Es como el pelotón de un equipo de ciclismo. Van todos juntos y se turnan en la dirección para que todos descansen. Uno sólo no podría avanzar al mismo ritmo que avanzan en equipo, pero sin embargo, todo el equipo es una unidad y supone un apoyo muy importante para todos los que forman parte de un proyecto de vida de esta envergadura.
Yo creo, igualmente, que si Mauri y Rebe hubieran intentado hacer lo que hicieron en Alemania hubiera resultado un desastre, por la misma razón que intentar empezar algo así en España se me antoja casi imposible, aunque espero que no sea así, porque me gusta mucho el modelo ese de vida…
Sin darnos cuenta estamos ya en Quito, inmensísima ciudad enclavada entre las montañas. Antes de llegar a casa de la familia de Vini y Lili, donde vamos a comer, pasamos por una calle con una impresionante panorámica de la ciudad. Vini me explica que hay catalogados más de 220 hectáreas de edificios coloniales que hay que conservar, puesto que están declarados patrimonio de la humanidad por la UNESCO; que la misma zona antigua de la ciudad ha sido considerada así y que no se permite la construcción sobre esas edificaciones.
Cuando llegamos a la casa me presentan a toda la familia de Liliana, y más tarde a la de Vinicio, donde finalmente almorzamos. Ambas familias comparten finca y, aunque tienen espacios separados sí que comparten el garaje, la entrada y un espacio central. Nunca había visto algo así, es curioso.
Durante la comida conversamos sobre la variedad dialectal del castellano, cómo usamos algunas palabras en España, cómo se usan en Ecuador, en Perú, etc. Incluso también cuestiones pronunciación y fórmulas de expresión que varían de una región a otra.
Después de comer vamos con Vini y Camila a conocer un poco el barrio de Vini. Vamos en coche hasta un parque en lo alto de la loma, desde donde se contempla una magnífica panorámica de la ciudad. Miramos por los anteojos de 25 centavos mientras Vini hace fotos con su cámara. Al poco subimos hacia lo alto del parque, donde hay un edificio tipo “mercat del Born”, con estructura metálica y paredes de vidrio. Ese espacio antiguamente era un mercado ubicado en el centro de la ciudad. Hace unos años se trasladó aquí arriba y se utiliza como espacio para exposiciones o actividades culturales.
Cuando estamos arriba empieza a llover cada vez con mayor intensidad y, aunque volvemos corriendo al coche, llegamos empapados. Me sorprende ver bajo la lluvia una mujer con un vestido sin mangas, cuando nosotros, sólo por el frío, ya vamos abrigados hasta los topes…
Desde ahí bajamos al centro histórico, a conocer, desde el coche, los principales edificios: ayuntamiento, palacio de gobierno, etc. Una nota curiosa es la inmensa cantidad de iglesias y edificios religiosos que hay. Aproximadamente unos 80 templos en la zona antigua, donde se calcula que vivían cerca de 10.000 personas. Hay calles desde donde miras y puedes ver una iglesia al frente, otra un poco más arriba y otra al cruzar la esquina. Sorprendente.
Conversamos sobre la arquitectura colonial, sobria y sistematizada. La arquitectura es una cosa que va a gustos (como todo) y la verdad es que a mí no me llama la atención para nada este estilo colonial. Es más, lo encuentro aburrido y repetitivo.
Después de la ruta turística por el centro del a ciudad volvemos a casa para recoger a Lili y despedirnos para volver a Oyambaro. De camino pasamos por el Supermaxi para hacer algunas compras de comida antes de ir a casa. Jugando con Camila le empiezo a hablar en el idioma de la pe (elpe ipidipiopoma depe lapa pepe), y se interesa por aprenderlo y que le hablen así. Es muy diveritido hablar con Vini en pe, pasamos un buen rato haciendo trabalenguas papepipopueros.
Una vez allí escuchamos “kalimán”, una serie radiofónica de los años 50-60, de un personaje extraordinario que lucha contra “la organización”, al estilo de las películas de espías entre americanos y rusos de esa época. Magnetófonos que se autodestruyen, chicas hermosas, heroínas que fuman en cigarrillos largos, misiones imposible… todo esto mientras hacemos pulseras de tela. Cami me ha enseñado la técnica de pulseras en uve (>>>>) y yo a ella le he enseñado a hacer macramé. Cada uno se ha hecho su pulsera, que ya llevamos puesta.
Vini me va explicando el argumento de un libro que está leyéndose, “los hijos de la tierra”, o algo así, de una chica humana de la prehistoria que acaba viviendo con una tribu de humanoides, y todas las aventuras que le van sucediendo.
Después de cenar cada uno sigue con su pulsera hasta terminarla, y antes de dormir jugamos a cartas y tocamos un rato la guitarra cantando con la chimenea de fondo, todos en un espacio agradable… yo quiero que mi vida en el futuro sea algo así…

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