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Thursday, 13 de March, 2008 a las 23:41 por Aarón (Gente, Paisajes, Sensaciones)
De vuelta a Lima, esta vez, la segunda ocasión en la que viajo a esta ciudad. La primera de todas no era “de vuelta” sino “de ida”. Cruce Ventanilla, sobre las 11, según agencia. Realmente no escucharon mi pregunta, porque a las 11 llegaba el bus al terminal de Fiori, donde llegan la mayoría de agencias “marginals” que van a Lima.
Sea como fuere me pasé de parada, sobre las 9 vi algo de “Ventanilla - Aeropuerto”, y no le presté más atención, pero cuando al cabo de veinte minutos veo que estábamos mucho más cerca de Lima de lo que en principio era normal me preocupé. Me dijeron que el cruce ya había pasado hacía rato, así que tuve que volver atrás, como muchas otras veces, con una combi, y esperar en Ventanilla al encuentro con Irma, con quien había quedado ya hacía un par de días.
Cuando llegué al cruce me encontré con un paisaje bastante curioso. Mayoritariamente desértico, las casas crecen a ambos lados de la carretera, enfilando las montañas que crecen alrededor del valle. Un sol abrasador, camiones y autobuses que circulan a alta velocidad sin respetar señales viales, vendedores semi-ambulantes en lo alto del cruce y un ambiente bastante enrarecido y en el que, pese a estar viviendo más de 5 meses en Piura y haber conocido “parajes” de todo tipo, en el que me encontraba no destilaba demasiada confianza.
Al otro lado de la carretera veo a Irma, con su amiga, que todavía no conocía, Ángela, hija de chinchanos, y, por lo tanto, negra (o como dicen “los que por ahorrarse algún sinsabor”, morena). Lo primero, las presentaciones, y la alegría del reencuentro. De acuerdo que era una semana, pero cuando quieres a alguien importa poco si los tiempos van en horas, días o meses, la distancia siempre duele igual. Y desde ahí a Ventanilla propiamente, ya que eso era simplemente el cruce para ir hasta ese pueblo. El centro de esta villa es similar a Piura, con comercios, iluminación pública abundante (aunque era de día los postes de la luz seguían ahí imponentes), serenazgo muy visible, buen asfaltado, etc.
La cosa cambia cuando, después de estar un rato sentados en un parque “descansando del viaje”, vamos hacía Angamos, el barrio donde está Costa Azul, la zona donde viven Irma y Ángela. Desde la carretera se aprecia: el paisaje vuelve a ser desértico, y todo recuerda a cualquier asentamiento piurano, como el de San Martín, o la Primavera, aunque aún menos verde.
Nos adentramos en el valle con una moto, y llegamos a una avenida sin asfaltar que se encarama en la montaña. En una esquina bajamos y seguimos a pie subiendo una pendiente de unos 40 grados de inclinación. Y 30 o 40 metros más arriba están sus casas, unas pequeñas construcciones de madera improvisadas en la pared de roca. Precisamente la familia de Irma está rompiendo la pared de la montaña para acomodar un par de habitaciones unos metros más arriba de las que tienen ahora. Esto es lo que se llama una invasión, y realmente, es para verlo. Lástima que no hubiera tenido aún la cámara…
Después de saludar en casa de Irma a su madre me invita a un almuerzo la mar de apetitoso, y que después del viaje de 12 o 14 horas entra la mar de bien. Y más tarde buscamos un hotel en Lima donde pasar la noche del día siguiente, ya que el hostal para esta noche ya lo hemos encontrado, en Angamos, junto a la carretera que nos lleva a Ventanilla hacia un lado y hacia Lima por el otro.
Salimos después de almorzar, sobre las 3 de la tarde, hacia Lima, a una hora o así de camino. Pasamos junto al aeropuerto, la fábrica de Repsol, el Callao, hasta llegar al centro de la ciudad, en la plaza 2 de mayo, una curiosa plaza donde los 8 edificios que hacen esquina son exactamente iguales, construcciones coloniales de color azul entre celeste y marino. Y todas las tiendas que hay en sus bajos son de música, así que es mi pequeño paraiso recién descubierto, con una grandiosísima variedad de instrumentos musicales de todo tipo, y que me gustaría conocer de más de cerca.
Seguimos hasta la plaza de armas, donde empezamos a buscar algún hotel u hostal para Xenia y yo después del “susto” del aeropuerto. Varias vueltas a la plaza de armas, el jirón de la Unión, la calle Japón, y encontramos uno junto a la plaza de Armas, frente al Club de la Unión, un pequeño hostal familiar que encontramos subiendo las escaleras y que bien podría ser un piso del Eixample de Barcelona, con sus tragaluces estrechos y sus grandes ventanales de madera. La habitación no es ninguna cosa del otro mundo, pero bueno, ya está bien, que después de toda la tarde sin encontrar nada por el centro empieza a ser desesperante el caminar sin rumbo.
Después de esto nos paramos en una pizzería al paso para coger unas pizzetas para llenar el estómago antes de volver. Los vendedores ambulantes y mendigos abundan, y sólo mientras esperamos que el horno caliente nuestras porciones, nos asaltan hasta 6 personas, entre ellos 2 niños, pidiéndonos una limosna…
Pero ya nos volvemos. Un rato en casa de Irma, de nuevo, y vuelta los 3 con la hija de Ángela, Melanie Rubí, a una pollería del centro de Ventanilla, que había quedado ya apalabrado desde Piura. Las pollerías en Lima parecen los McDonald’s de España, con sus mesas, la iluminación, los juegos para niños… sólo cambia lo que comes, el ambientes es casi el mismo. Y para acabar el día, me dejan las 3 en el hostal, y estamos un rato conversando, hasta que las tres se van, despues de que la pequeña haya perdido la llave de la habitación misteriosamente (otra anécdota para el recuerdo).
Una noche intranquila, con muchas cosas en la cabeza, con los nervios del reencuentro del día siguiente, con los vecinos de las otras habitaciones haciendo escándalo a las 6 o 7 de la mañana con la música a todo trapo como si estuvieran compitiendo entre ellos… y la llave sin aparecer.
En fin, que pasamos la mañana tranquila en casa de Irma, conversando con ella un poco, y más tarde con su madre y la niña que cuida, Sofía, de la edad de Melanie, más o menos, un año y medio o cosa así. A media tarde me voy a dar una vuelta con Irma: vamos a ir al internet a mirar el correo para confirmar la hora de llegada del vuelo de Xenia, y también a Ventanilla a comprar un cargador para las baterías de la cámara.
Después de un rato en el internet cogemos una combi hasta el centro y miramos en un Metro (un supermercado de aquí) si hay un cargador de esos, aunque finalmente resulta que no, y tenemos que mirar por la calle de las pollerías, donde hay bastantes tiendas de electrónica y telefonía. Después de encontrar un cargador volvemos al Metro para comprar un jugo de naranja y unos bombones para regalarle a su madre como agradecimiento por haberme acogido en su casa, y nos sentamos en un parque a conversar tranquilamente hasta que sobre las 5 y algo volvemos hacía Costa Azul para recoger las cosas.
Y a las 6:10 salimos hacia el aeropuerto los 3, Irma, Ángela y yo. Aquí ya empiezo a estar bastante desconectado y mucho más pendiente de llegar allí y encontrarme con Xenia. El tiempo va pasando, y llegamos al terminal 5 minutos antes de que aterrice el vuelo. Éste va en hora, pero nunca parece que vaya a salir ella por la puerta. La gente sale con cuentagotas, y van pasando los minutos y no parece que la cosa cambie. Sigue saliendo gente, poca gente, y no es hasta al cabo de casi una hora que veo a Xenia estirando su maleta verde caqui. Y ahí yo que salgo corriendo para darle un abrazo tan fuerte como creo que nunca nos habíamos dado, o, por lo menos, tan sincero y sentido… y después de la sorpresa, las presentaciones. Irma no habló, como ya había dijo, y me sorprendía, pues yo la conozco como una chica siempre alegre y muy habladora.
“Qué blanca estás” creo que deben haber sido mis quintas palabras, y “qué flaco que estás tú” han sido las suyas… En cinco minutos ya me había acostumbrado a su presencia y me parecía como si los cinco meses de distancia y tiempo no hubieran prácticamente existido. los besos eran los mismos, al igual que las caricias y los abrazos, y no se me hizo extraño sentirla cerca como siempre, aunque he de reconocer que no tenía muy claro como iba a sentirme cuando la tuviera cerca.
Una pizza en un bar estilo irlandés del centro, acomodar las cosas en el hotel, descansar (y no tanto descansar) después del viajecito de nosecuantas horas de avión, y prepararnos para pasar mañana un día en Lima…
Increiblemente, otra vez juntos, tu y yo…

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